The Waldorf Astoria Rating: 4.0 Pearls

Midtown East, Manhattan, New York City

Park Avenue Lobby

A paragon of sophistication, the Waldorf-Astoria is the only hotel in New York to enforce a dress code (no jeans, T-shirts, tank tops, or baseball hats recommended in the public areas after 6 p.m.). Built in 1931 (then the tallest and largest hotel in the world), the Waldorf-Astoria retains its stunning art deco grandeur. Every President since FDR has stayed in the presidential suite. There even used to be a secret train platform underneath the hotel at 49th Street, for high-profile guests. The infamous 1985 NBA draft lottery was held at the Waldorf. Conrad Hilton purchased the hotel in 1949, though its strong association with the Hilton brand is a more recent phenomenon, coinciding with Hilton's 2006 launch of the Waldorf-Astoria Collection.

Few hotels anywhere in the world rival the Waldorf's history and charm. Critics scoff that it lives in the past and treads only on its reputation. But I discovered a hotel that is still thriving, with attentive yet discreet service, well-maintained rooms, and robust dining options.

Since the 1,425-room hotel takes up an entire block, the check-in area is in the middle of the building in a sort of warm, dimly lit inner sanctum. The east and west elevator banks border the main lobby, along with a handful of specialty shops and glass-encased exhibits of the hotel's illustrious past. Plump leather chairs dot the room, frequently filled with people reading the paper or working out of briefcases; indeed, it's like another century here. But the crowd is mixed, drawing as many honeymooners as families or business travelers.

Beneath art deco chandeliers, the Park Avenue lobby features a second-story terrace that includes Cole Porter's piano. (He lived at the Waldorf Towers for 30 years, and on the weekends the hotel still brings in a pianist to perform both standards and classical pieces.) The lobby is bustling but hushed. There's no mood music playing -- so refreshing compared to the pulsating techno headache of the W! And even the few toddlers I spied managed to use their inside voices. The scene was perhaps most boisterous at the Bull and Bear, a high-end afterwork hotspot.

About two years before my stay, before I'd even moved to New York, my now-husband proposed to me inside a Waldorf Towers suite after cocktails at Peacock Alley in the lobby. To celebrate the occasion the hotel provided fresh flowers and sent up a fantastic room-service breakfast. In short, I strongly endorse the Waldorf as a destination for romance.

Friendly staff at Inagiku Restaurant

Shockingly, none of the doormen helped me out of my cab on Park Avenue; they must have been as leery of the slushy puddle by the curb as I was. I barely got a nod when walking through the revolving doors, and even as I climbed the carpeted steps toward the grand terrace lobby, no one offered a welcome or directed me toward the front desk for check-in. To be fair, I only had two tote bags and no suitcase, so it was less obvious that I was there to check in.

Check-in was simple, and due to the fact that the hotel staffs about 8 to 10 clerks at the front desk at any hour, there's rarely a line. Even better, the hotel allows for in-room checkout via either the phone or the television set. You can just leave your keys and go.

When I returned to the lobby to grill the concierge (there were two at one desk), he fielded each of my queries expertly, from making dinner reservations, to quoting the price of in-room Internet, to recommending five nearby bars suitable for young professionals.

Around 10 p.m. I realized I'd forgotten my toothbrush and called guest services to see if they could deliver one. A soothing voice said it wouldn't be a problem and promised it in 15 to 20 minutes. An hour later, I still had nothing and called again. The person I spoke with was apologetic, and at 11:19 I received a fancy pack of two toothbrushes, two minitubes of Colgate, and two bottles of mouthwash for free.

Most of the guests I spoke to raved about the service, and the hotel is generally pretty generous with upgrades to ensure guests are happy. As the Waldorf is owned by Hilton, HH Honors Diamond VIP members get extra perks like free, afterhours access to the gym, free breakfast, and free cocktails at the hotel's bars. If you're not a member, it's free to sign up for a membership.

View on a Larger Map

The Waldorf is on Park Avenue between East 49th and 50th Streets in the neighborhood known as Midtown East. It's around the corner from the 6 station on 51st Street, five blocks (a five- to eight-minute walk) east of Rockefeller Center and its accompanying B, D, F, and V subway lines, and a five- to eight-minute walk from Grand Central Station at 42nd Street. The hotel is about a 15-minute walk from Central Park.

The surrounding neighborhood consists mainly of tall office buildings and other hotels (the New York Palace is a block away on Madison). The storied luxury apartment buildings of Park Avenue start about 15 blocks north. There are three ATMs (Bank of America, Citibank, and Chase) two blocks from the hotel at 52nd Street, and there are plenty of restaurants -- ranging from takeaway to Michelin-starred -- within blocks of the hotel.

The Deluxe Guestroom

At 200 to 225 square feet, deluxe queen guest rooms (the cheapest rooms) are a bit small, but on par with most New York hotel rooms. They have a small entry alcove, an elegant desk, and a sweet little armchair and hassock by the window. The bed, with sateen sheets, is definitely closer to a double than a queen in size (many hotels try to qualify their "European" queen as an actual queen), but the pillow-top mattress and silk-trimmed bedspread with matching throw pillows are all luxurious and comfortable.

The antique wooden furnishings, including an armoire, mirror, and desk, cream brocade fabric on the walls, and the floral carpet, do look a bit dated, but that's the point. They're supposed to be evocative of the Waldorf's gilded origins. Some guests complain about the lack of control over the thermostat -- this is the case at any old New York hotel -- but my heater worked just fine, even during an off-season snowstorm. In my room, there was a slightly dizzying smell of strong cleaning products.

The flat-screen TVs start at 27 inches (but they're 42 inches in most rooms) and get premium channels such as HBO, ESPN, and Starz. (The tube TVs we found during our visit have thankfully been replaced.) All rooms also come with a wonderful wave radio iPod dock (from the "Waldorf-Astoria Collection," no less). I could even hook up my iPhone, which is not the case with many hotel docking stations.

Wi-Fi is free in the lobby, and in-room Wi-Fi is available for $15.95 for 24 hours (or $18.95 if you need to access private networks).

The bathroom isn't overly large, but it has a nice glass sink, Penhaligon's toiletries, and a decent-size tub. The water pressure was good during my stay and the temperature was hot. Interestingly, the faucet is on the opposite end of the tub, away from the actual showerhead.

I also had the opportunity to visit a Superior room, which has a much larger, more recently renovated bathroom (during my visit, the hotel was slowly in the process of updating the bathrooms). With modern showers and more sink space, the superior bathroom is a significant improvement. In the 400-square-foot Astor suite (costing around $389), the bathroom was large enough to hold a separate tub and shower.

The Waldorf's best rooms can be found on floors 29 through 42 in the iconic (and more expensive) hotel-within-a-hotel, the Waldorf Towers. Guest rooms here start at 375 square feet (compared to 200 to 250 for deluxe and superior rooms in the main hotel) and the hotel's most opulent suites are all on the Tower side, including high-profile residences past and present. (The Towers are the official residence of the U.S. Ambassador to the United Nations, and a popular spot for U.S. Presidents.) Security and service within the Towers are extra discreet and attentive.

The Fitness Center

The 14,000 square-foot Guerlain Spa opened in September 2008 and features luxurious treatments (from $150) as well as personal training in a private, high-tech fitness facility. Most spa treatments (including those targeted for men) cost about $300 to $500, but the highest of high-end is the $2,175 Sublime Deluxe transforming day experience, which lasts seven hours, 45 minutes, and results, hopefully, in both weight loss and one's skin being flecked with gold.

The fifth-floor gym costs $15 per day for anyone who isn't a member of the HHonors loyalty program -- so join up; it's free! Management implied that the $15 fee is a way to keep the gym -- which is not especially large, considering the size of the hotel -- less crowded. All of the Precor cardio equipment (six treadmills, six ellipticals, and three bikes) is new and all have personal video screens. There are also exercise balls, resistance bands, lots of free weights, and a few weight machines. There's an attendant on hand to supply guests with towels, bottled water, and fruit.

The Waldorf has 40 different banquet and special event venues throughout the hotel. During my stay, I crossed paths with countless conference attendees and power breakfasters. The hotel is also a popular spot for weddings (the Grand Ballroom can hold up to 3,000 people) and for many years has played host to the International Debutante Ball. At the other end of the spectrum, it often hosts the annual Rock and Roll Hall of Fame induction ceremony.

Every Friday, a man who bills himself as the Millionaires' Magician puts on a special magic show at the Waldorf Towers. Tickets cost $70 and showtimes are at 7 p.m. and 9 p.m.

The hotel lobby is also filled with a couple of jewelry shops, as well as a shoeshine stand, a hair salon, and a florist.

One of the benefits of a hotel with 1,400 rooms is that there are a lot of convenient configurations available for groups and families. The Waldorf offers rooms with two double beds and also has many rooms and suites with pullout sofas. Furthermore, the hotel provides rollaway twin beds (for a fee) in rooms without pullout couches, and it has deluxe rooms and suites that can be connected to each other.

Oscar's is the only remotely kid-friendly restaurant in the hotel, with a kids' menu and special Waldorf coloring book. However, there are plenty of fast-food and family-friendly restaurants throughout Midtown East. The hotel also hosts a children's tea every Saturday from 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Yes, some furniture in the room is antique and therefore has the occasional scuff or knick, but every silk-covered chair, every restaurant table, and every carpet was spotless and in pristine condition. Particular attention seems to be paid to the hotel's art deco touches, like mirrors by the elevator, or sparkling chandeliers. I found no substantial flaws.

I also encountered a number of housekeepers in the hallways, and other than a faint whiff of cleaning solution in my room, I found it to be perfect.

Dinner at Bull and Bear Steakhouse

The most highly regarded of the Waldorf's restaurants is Inagiku, which was the first sushi restaurant to open in Midtown (back in 1974).

The storied Bull and Bear Steakhouse claims to be the only restaurant on the East Coast serving the prime grade of USDA Certified Angus Beef. Covered in rich mahogany and grommeted leather, with a whiff of aged Scotch in the air, the restaurant and its popular bar are unabashedly masculine and stodgy. The Fox Business show "Happy Hour" airs live from the bar every weekday from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. The food -- Caesar salad, crab cakes, filet mignon, and seared duck -- is excellent, though the service is far less doting than at other top steakhouses in New York, like the Benjamin Steakhouse at the nearby Dylan Hotel.

Oscar's American Brasserie is the hotel's most casual restaurant (open for a buffets at breakfast and lunch) but it's not cheap: a "New York bagel" with cream cheese and lox goes for $23.

The beautiful art deco lounge just off the lobby, Peacock Alley, is a popular spot for evening drinks, and offers live music Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. The lounge also serves food and is most renowned for its sumptuous, $95 Sunday brunch.

In keeping with the hotel's high-society ambiance, guests have their pick of places to get sauced. Each of the aforementioned restaurants have accompanying bars, but guests can also go to Sir Harry's, a dark and clubby spot near the Park Avenue entrance, and the Cocktail Terrace above the stunning Park Avenue lobby. Among the Terrace's unique features are its children's tea on Saturdays and live music played on Cole Porter's grand piano from Wednesdays through Sundays (Porter lived at the Waldorf for many years).

Other eating options in the immediate vicinity include various halal carts on the nearby sidewalks, a Chipotle at the northwest corner of Park Avenue and East 50th Street, and Inside Park at St. Bart's, a pleasant café inside a church just across 50th Street. In other words, there's plenty to choose from at various price points.

The hotel also has the world's only Starbucks to feature fresh-baked pastries from the Waldorf's executive pastry chef.

The Waldorf-Astoria has some impressive long-standing links to high society. Real-life luminaries ranging from Douglas MacArthur to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor to Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie have all resided within the Towers. In the fall of 2008 the New York Post infamously published (then retracted) a story about Michelle Obama running up an exorbitant room-service bill at the hotel. Though she wasn't actually staying there, her husband was at the hotel for a meeting, and he's still due for a stay in the Presidential Suite.

The hotel is also featured in countless movies -- from the 1945 Ginger Rogers vehicle "Week-End at the Waldorf" to Philip Seymour Hoffman's forthcoming Jack Goes Boating, which shot at the hotel just a couple of days before my stay. My personal favorite is the 1988 comedy classic Coming to America. If it's good enough for the king of Zamunda, it must be the best, right?

New York City has three nearby airports: JFK, LaGuardia, and Newark (in New Jersey). Flying into JFK or LaGuardia is typically easiest and the least time-consuming. From JFK, it's a one-hour, $45 flat-rate taxi ride to anywhere in Manhattan. From LaGuardia, it's about a 30-minute, $40 metered cab ride to Midtown Manhattan. Rides from Newark cost at least $40 (plus tolls), and can take more than 90 minutes. Don't forget to tip your driver 15 percent to 25 percent.

To save some cash, try the group shuttles that are available at all three airports for about $14 per person. For more information on the shuttles, go to Super Shuttle or New York Airport Service. You can also take public transit from any of the airports for as little as $7 per person, but travel can take up to two hours and involve a lot of lugging bags up and down stairs. For mass-transit directions right to the hotel, check out HopStop.com.