The St. Regis Washington, D.C. Rating: 4.5 Pearls

Downtown, Washington, D.C., United States

The lobby

In the eight decades since Calvin Coolidge cut the ceremonial grand-opening ribbon, every president has visited the St. Regis. For seven of those decades -- from 1926 to end of the last century -- the property was known as the Carlton Hotel, and hosted everyone from presidents (Reagan had his hair cut there) to celebrities (Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, and Cher were frequent guests). Howard Hughes kept a permanent suite at the Carlton during World War II.

In 1999, the hotel changed hands and became the second St. Regis in the world, 95 years after the flagship property in New York opened. (There are now about 20 other St. Regis hotels, including one in San Francisco that's Oyster's only five-pearl hotel in that city.) Just as significant as the hotel's St. Regis label is its association with Starwood, which enables the chain's frequent customers to use or accrue preferred guest points. The result is a clientele -- and hence a vibe -- even more corporate than other Washington hotels, at least during the week. When I was there, a conference for CEOs dominated both the lobby and the meeting rooms downstairs; at night, men in suits filled the restaurant and bar.

With eight meeting rooms, the St. Regis relies heavily on business travelers, but its impressive Astor Ballroom, along with its al-fresco accompaniment, the Astor Terrace -- named after the founder of the original St. Regis, John Jacob Astor IV (who later became the richest casualty of the Titanic) -- host scores of social events as well. The high-profile (and commensurately high-priced) restaurant, meanwhile, is one of the few hotel eateries in D.C. that attracts locals as well as guests. The hotel's biggest draw, though, is probably the simple fact that it underwent a massive renovation, closing for 16 months and reopening in 2008. Everything still looks shiny and new, and you can bet, given the pedigree of the St. Regis brand, it will remain that way for a while.

So how does the St. Regis stack up against the other luxury hotels in D.C.? Its newness helps a lot, but not much else sets it apart. If location is a deciding factor and you want to be downtown, you're better off at either of the St. Regis's boutique neighbors, the Hay-Adams or Jefferson. Both offer far more charm and individuality, better service, and just as many amenities despite being far smaller. If you feel more comfortable at a chain, or the aforementioned boutiques are charging more than you'd like, we love the Park Hyatt in Foggy Bottom.

The concierge

You get almost everything you'd expect from a St. Regis -- 24-hour room service, choice of morning newspaper, a doorman to hold the door for you every time. Classical music awaited me when I returned to my room after the evening turndown. There's even someone on call 24 hours a day to bring you anything you need (they call him/her a butler, but as far as I could tell, it's basically a staffer in a tuxedo).

Yet I was a bit disappointed with the service, especially after experiencing the royal (or rather, presidential) treatment at the Hay-Adams and Jefferson. Among the missteps: The woman at the front desk who checked me in was either having a bad day or was generally uninspired -- she didn't seem happy to be there. Then, when the bellman who gave me a tour of my room discovered the mirror TV in the bathroom wasn't working, he said he would send up an engineer to fix it. The TV worked OK (albeit not perfectly) later that night, but I'm not sure if anyone ever came. Finally, the room service did not include a cart, which forced me to eat at the desk.

• 24-hour room service
• Nightly turndown service
• Free overnight shoeshine
• Choice of morning newspapers
• If you're staying in a suite, you get even more: free tea and coffee, pressing (two free items during stay), and a fresh bowl of fruit every day

View on a Larger Map

The St. Regis is in the heart of "old downtown," just a short walk from the White House. Lots of must-see historic sites are within easy walking distance, but while the immediate area around the hotel is bustling with nine-to-fivers during the day, it can border on desolate at night. Your only dining and drinking options in the immediate area are on-site or at other hotels like the Hay-Adams or the Jefferson.

• Lafayette Park, two blocks south, is great for tourist watching and statue spotting.
• 10- to 15-minute walk to Washington Monument, at the center of the Mall
• 20- to 25-minute stroll to other points of interest on the Mall (U.S. Capitol, Smithsonian museums, Lincoln Memorial), though you can also take the Metro
• Two blocks from three different Metro stops encompassing three different lines -- can get virtually anywhere
• Two miles to Union Station; 10 minutes by cab, depending on traffic
• Five miles to Reagan National Airport; 10 minutes by cab, depending on traffic
• 25-plus miles to Dulles International Airport; at least 45 minutes by cab

A Superior King Room

The rooms are up there with the best in the city. Renovated in 2008, they're equipped with the newest technology (Bose iPod docks, flat-screens embedded in the bathroom mirrors) and still look brand new. I didn't love the color scheme, but to each his own. Besides, the crucial bases are all covered. Comfortable bed? Check. Amenities aplenty? Many checks. Space to move around, dine in, set up that ironing board? Check, check, check. (In general, they're bigger than the rooms at the similarly pricey hotels just down the street, the Hay-Adams and Jefferson, but smaller than those at luxury hotels in other parts of the city.) Basically, the rooms lack the fun touches and individuality of those at the Hay-Adams or Jefferson, but they hit their marks where they should. Unless you're a spoiled hotel reviewer, it's tough to complain.

• Four types of basic rooms: Superior (350 square feet), Deluxe (375), Premier Deluxe (440 to 470), and Grand Luxe (485)
• About 25 suites, including 20 or so St. Regis and Knickerbocker Suites (about 1,000 square feet)
• Beds with firm but comfortable Sealy pillow-top mattresses, Pratesi 100 percent cotton linens, feather pillows, and a down comforter
• 32-inch LG flat-screen TVs with 65 channels, including three HBO stations and some high-def channels
• DVD players; selection of DVDs available (see Features, below)
• Bose iPod docks
• High-speed Wi-Fi costs extra
• Minibars and snack drawers
• Free bottles of water
• Stylish bathrooms that are also high-tech -- 15-inch flat-screen TVs embedded in the mirrors
• Showers with removable showerheads and excellent water pressure
• Bathrobes, hair dryers, and magnifying mirrors (no slippers, though -- unusual for a luxury hotel in D.C.)
• Reméde bath products
• No views to speak of. For that, try the Hay-Adams.

The business center

The St. Regis doesn't offer a ton in the way of amenities, but then, neither do most hotels in D.C., even its luxury competitors. And with the exception of the fitness center, which is poorly equipped (no free weights; just three weight machines), everything is top-notch. The most unique feature is the nightly "Champagne Sabering Ritual". Every day at 6 p.m. (5 p.m. during the spring and summer), a wine server makes a loud announcement to the effect of, "Ladies and gentleman: On this, the 23rd day of March, 2010, we mark the occasion with the pouring of our ceremonial champagne. ..." Then she pops the cork and pours glasses for everyone who wants one. It's over by 6:05. All in all, a lot of pomp for very little circumstance. But hey, free booze.

• Spacious business center with PCs and a printer -- and free, too
• 24-hour gym with five cardio machines (all with personal TV screens and headphones) and three weight machines, plus some nice touches like free bottled water and fresh fruit
• Eight meeting rooms of various sizes, making the hotel better for big groups than the luxury boutiques nearby, the Hay-Adams and the Jefferson. For details, click here.
• 2,500-square-foot Astor Ballroom and Astor Terrace host scores of weddings, bar mitzvahs, and other events.
• Selection of DVDs for your in-room DVD player (though by the time I inquired about them one night, the pickins were slim, to say the least)

Because of its mature vibe (antiquish furniture, conservative decor), the St. Regis isn't ideal for families with young children. At the least, though, you can be sure the attentive staff will go above and beyond to make the young'uns smile.

• Cribs available for free, and fit in any size room
• Rollaways also available, but fit only in Grand Luxe Rooms and cost an additional fee per night
• Adjoining rooms (king bed connects to two doubles)
• Small selection of kids' DVDs available at no extra charge
• No great family options in the neighborhood. The Jefferson has a similarly adult vibe, but it does have more kid-friendly amenities.
• For a roundup of the city's most family-friendly hotels, click here.

After a 2008 renovation, the St. Regis is still looking sharp. The only flaws I spotted in my room were a few small scratches in the furniture and this small tear in the duvet cover.

Dinner at Adour

The St. Regis's restaurant, Adour, represents a rare breed: a hotel restaurant that wields enough cache to draw beyond its hotel-guest base. Though celebrity-chef Alain Ducasse has lent his name to the restaurant (it's named after the river in southwest France near Ducasse's hometown), it's worth noting he is not the executive chef. Nevertheless, Adour has already garnered several honors, including Robb Report's "2009 Best of the Best" and Mobil Travel Guide's Four Star Award. My dinner there was delightful.

• French-American cuisine ("Cuisine designed with wine in mind," it says on the menu)
• Closed for dinner Sunday and Monday; open for breakfast every morning
• Five- and four-course tasting menus available
• Neighborhood is business-oriented, so most of the eateries are lunch and afterwork spots. Your best bets: Blackfinn, BLT Steak, and Plume at the Jefferson.
• For a quick lunch nearby, try Devon & Blakely, down towards the White House