Hotel on Rivington

Since it opened in October 2004, the 110-room Hotel on Rivington has played host to a wealthy clientele who consider the Lower East Side their after-hours playground. Guests include a mix of celebrities, hedge-fund types, European thrill-seekers, and elite members of the creative class who expect their hotels to be as cool as their careers. The hotel's public areas certainly live up to those expectations with unusual design elements like the a full-size pool table in the lobby, and the igloo-like entryway.

There always seems to be scene in progress at the Hotel on Rivington. The hotel's three-level rooftop Penthouse is a popular event space and wedding venue, complete with a hot tub and panoramic views of New York City.

The guest rooms are appropriately swank and luxurious. Highlights include fantastic beds with form-contouring Tempur-Pedic mattresses, 500-thread-count Frette linens; huge steam showers; and superb views of New York City through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls in rooms on the 7th floor and up.

The Hotel on Rivington definitely holds its own with the group of expensively hip downtown hotels that includes the Bowery, Crosby Street, and SIXTY LES.

For most of the past century, the Lower East Side was the neighborhood where newly arrived immigrants packed into tenements while trying to grab a toehold here in America. Now the tenements have been transformed into pricey apartments inhabited by junior investment bankers who like to dress up as punk rockers at night. The streets are still a little grungy, but there's no shortage of party traffic. No matter the changes, the LES is too offbeat and entrenched to become 100 percent gentrified. A lot of the longtime stores, restaurants and galleries are open and thriving, as are no-frills performance havens like ABC No Rio and the Nuyorican Poets Cafe.

Safety isn't a big issue, but the LES isn't Park Avenue either. A nonstop nightlife scene means heavy foot traffic and noise into the wee hours.

• On the LES, there are as many drinking options as there are designer vodkas. Three nearby local favorites: Whiskey Ward, Max Fish, and the 1970s Wisconsin family basement-themed Welcome to the Johnsons
• The Essex Street-Delancey Street subway station -- serviced by the F, J, M, Z lines -- is a block away.
• Two blocks from the great Tenement Museum
• The southern edge of Central Park is four miles north, at least a $15, 20-minute cab ride.
• 20-minute F-train ride to Times Square

Gorgeous, comfortable rooms with even better views. As always, higher up is better (and more expensive), but because the 21-story hotel towers over the surrounding tenements, great city views don't require being at the top; even my 4th-floor room looked out on the bustling street, which was great for people-watching.

• 362-square-foot Regular King Room includes a soft velvet couch, a desk, coffee table, and an amusing furry ottoman that gives the impression that an English sheepdog is sleeping at the foot of the bed.
• What a bed! The Tempur-Pedic mattress is like a formfitting, weight-distributing, sponge designed just for you. Topped with 500-thread-count Frette linens
• The curtain and sheer window covering were operated by buttons on the wall
• Davines toiletries
• iPod docking station
• Some rooms are laid out so that guests can't view flat-screen TVs from their bed
• Readers beware, many rooms lack bedside lamps
• Over-the-top minibars include bottles of Veuve Clicquot, Babeland products, high-end snacks, and full-size bottles of liquor

The best features are the common areas like the spacious lobby with the bar and pool table, and the three-level penthouse with the rooftop Jacuzzi. The fitness and business centers are currently undergoing renovations.

• Free Wi-Fi
• Free New York Times and/or New York Post
• In-room spa service are available

Across the street is the legendary Economy Candy; but beyond that, there isn't much for kids in the hotel or on the LES.

• Late night partiers spoil bedtimes.
• The lobby has a pool table and there are on-demand movies.
• Far from Central Park and most other family-friendly amenities

The hotel's well-regarded taqueria Viktor & Spoils serves up seasonal Mexican fare and classic tequila drinks, but is closed Sundays and Mondays. Juice Press, located on the ground floor of the hotel, serves vegan cuisine and cold-press juice, and is available for room service. The hotel's restaurant and lounge are undergoing renovations, with plans to re-open in spring of 2016.

Fortunately, the neighborhood has enough restaurants to feed whatever huddled masses end up on the Lower East Side. Spitzer's and innovative "gourmet wrap" joint Wolfnights are worth the venture next door.

• There are also plenty of cheaper down-to-earth eateries like Katz's Deli, Shopsin's, Festival Mexicano, and Economy Candy.
• A full breakfast is available for $20 a person.
• Morning coffee is free in the lobby.

New York has three nearby airports: JFK, LaGuardia, and Newark (in New Jersey). Flying into JFK or LaGuardia is typically easiest and the least time-consuming. From JFK, it's a one-hour, flat-rate taxi ride to anywhere in Manhattan. From LaGuardia, it's about a 30-minute metered cab ride to downtown Manhattan. Rides from Newark cost at least $40 (plus tolls), and can take more than 90 minutes. Don't forget to tip your driver 15 percent to 25 percent.

To save some cash, guests can try the group shuttles that are available at all three airports. For more information on the shuttles, go to Super Shuttle or New York Airport Service. People can also take public transit from any of the airports, but travel can take up to two hours and involve a lot of lugging bags up and down stairs.

Under 20 pounds, pets are free. Above that, there's a charge.

• The closest public park is six blocks away.