Mandarin Oriental, New York Rating: 5.0 Pearls

Upper West Side, Manhattan, New York City

The spa

Sure, when one thinks of classic New York hotels, old icons like the Plaza and the Pierre come to mind. But the Mandarin Oriental is a New York icon of a different ilk. Built in December 2003, the 248-room hotel towers 54 stories above Central Park on the Upper West Side. With a prime location, great views, and one of the best spas in the city, it's a strong contender in the category of modern classic.

After entering on the ground floor, just around the corner from Columbus Circle -- both a city landmark and a transit hub -- guests take an elevator up to the 35th-floor lobby. There it's business, and pleasure, as usual. Suits congregate in MObar for after-work cocktails and excellent views of the city and Central Park. Upstairs, on the 36th floor, Russian models have a go on the elliptical machines in the hotel's small but luxurious fitness center, which has a 75-foot lap pool and killer views of its own. Asian influences soften the high-gloss luxury sheen of the place: Soft Asian tones play quietly in the lobby; guests are offered green tea at check-in; and all rooms have yoga mats in the closet.

Maybe because the Mandarin shares the sprawling Time Warner Center with CNN and a shopping mall -- the upscale Shops at Columbus Circle -- it feels more bustling and inclusive than Upper East Side competitors like the Pierre. Guests seem well-off and the rooms are pricey, but the clientele tends to be international and eclectic. That even extends to four-legged guests -- the pet policy allows dogs of any size.

The rooms further make the case for new over old with large, luxurious bathrooms that include deep soaking tubs -- even in the least expensive standard rooms -- and hi-tech HD entertainment systems with surround sound. Among the city's most luxurious hotels, older isn't always wiser.

Porters

The discreet staff tends to guests' needs at every hour, and sees to it that all feel welcome in the hotel. A hotel manager emails guests the week before their arrival wishing them a "lovely stay." At check-in, when the front-desk clerk saw that it was my first time at the Mandarin, she came out from behind the desk to point out the hotel's facilities. Some guests have said that staff members have an attitude, but I found the opposite to be true: They were kinder and less stuffy than staff I've encountered at most high-end hotels. When my TV went on the fritz one night, they offered to send an engineer to my room even though it was past midnight. Likewise, when I needed my shoes shined just a couple of hours before checkout, they were picked up and returned shined in just over an hour.

Housekeeping is offered twice daily. The worker assigned to my room was extremely accommodating, offering to come back to do turndown service after I'd left the room -- and thoroughly tidying up the mess I'd made.

This is a large hotel with many people coming through its doors, however, and service is not without the minor glitch. After the bellboy brought my bags to my room, he offered to bring tea or coffee. I waited for it for over an hour, but it never arrived. Finally I went out. When I returned nearly an hour later, there was a lovely tea set waiting for me, but my companion's coffee never appeared. Additionally, I wasn't asked about my newspaper preference at check-in and had to call in the morning to get a paper. When I did, however, I got my paper in just a few minutes.

View on a Larger Map

The hotel's location on Columbus Circle, across from Central Park but also at the gateway to the upscale-but-relaxed Upper West Side, makes it feel distinctly less formal and stuffy that it's more tradition-bound, ultra-luxe counterparts on the Upper East Side -- even before you've walked in the door.

The hotel actually occupies the top floors of the Time Warner Center, a huge, two-tower complex that's also home to CNN, residential condos, and an upscale shopping mall on the lower levels, called The Shops at Columbus Circle. While the hotel's official address is 80 Columbus Circle, its main entrance is actually on 60th Street. Guests can access The Shops directly from the hotel's third floor, without stepping outdoors. The building has a Whole Foods Market in the basement, convenient for inexpensive on-the-go meals or putting together a picnic in the park. There's also a Borders bookstore; numerous high-end clothing and accessory boutiques; plus two of the city's best (and most expensive) restaurants: Thomas Keller's Per Se and Masayoshi Takayama's Masa.

Columbus Circle station is a major transit hub, with some half-dozen subway lines running through it. The Broadway theater district begins just six blocks south, and Lincoln Center, the city's massive (and just renovated) performing-arts complex, is within easy walking distance.

Though it sits just across from the southwestern corner of the park, some of the views (even on the park side of the building) are obscured by the Trump International Hotel.

New York City has three nearby airports: JFK, LaGuardia, and Newark (in New Jersey). Getting into town from JFK or LaGuardia is usually more convenient than from Newark, but travel times are heavily dependent on the time of day and traffic conditions. From JFK, a taxi to anywhere in Manhattan costs a flat rate of $45 and takes around an hour in average conditions. From LaGuardia, a metered cab ride to midtown Manhattan costs about $40 and can take 30 minutes if traffic is light, three times that if it's bad. Rides from Newark cost at least $40 plus tolls and can take more than 90 minutes. It's customary to tip your driver 15 to 25 percent.

Those looking to save some cash can use the privately run shuttle buses that are available at all three airports for about $14 per person. For more information on the shuttles, go to Super Shuttle or New York Airport Service. Public transit is also available for as little as $7 per person, but travel can take up to two hours and involve a lot of lugging bags up and down stairways.

For mass-transit directions right to the hotel, check out HopStop.com.

The Deluxe Double Room

Though they haven't been completely renovated since the hotel opened in late 2003, rooms feel thoroughly modern thanks to elegant Asian decor, hi-tech electronics, and some of the nicest bathrooms around.

Standard rooms average 420 square feet, slightly smaller than those at the Four Seasons but bigger than the 300-square-foot standard rooms at the Pierre. For another $70 or so, guests can upgrade to a Deluxe room, like the one I stayed in, which are on the higher floors and have views of the city and maybe a bit of river. In any case, you can always take in the spectacular views from the lobby and restaurants on the 35th floor or the pool and fitness center on the 36th floor.

The bathrooms are some of the best in the city. Even the least expensive standard rooms have deep soaking tubs. Showers have oversized rain showerheads, and the water pressure is so powerful you almost need a cigarette when you're done. Aromatherapy Associates toiletries aren't as recognizable a brand as the Four Season's Bulgari toiletries, but I had some great hair days after using the shampoo and conditioner. Toilets sit behind a frosted glass door, and bathrooms also feature small flat-screen televisions.

Electronics are thoroughly modern. Large Sharpe LCD televisions are connected to a Denon media hub that has a CD/DVD player, MP3 player hookup, and A/V ports should guests want to connect their laptop to the television. The media center also has surround sound, though I couldn't get any sound from my television. (The front desk offered to send someone from engineering even though it was past midnight when I called, but I was too tired to wait up.)

If your TV is working properly, there are tons of entertainment options. TVs broadcast more than 100 channels, some in HD, and premium channels. There are also free yoga classes available via the KoolConnect on-demand system. Many of the on-demand children's programs, like short Babar shows, are also free, but feature films, most in HD, cost $15. The front desk also has a small lending library of DVDs.

Beds have pillow-top mattresses and Egyptian cotton sheets by Fili D'oro. There were some nice surprises in the room: a yoga mat awaited me in the walk-in closet and two books labeled "Bedside Reading" were left on the desk. A little note said I was welcome to take the books with me -- an ironic pairing of The Great Gatsby and Warren Buffet and the Interpretation of Financial Statements. I did. If only I could have also taken home the showerhead and the amazing water pressure.

The pool

The spectacular pool on the 36th floor has floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides with views of the city and the Hudson River -- an urban oasis in the clouds. For guests unable to use a ladder to enter the pool, there's a special chair to lift them in and out of the water.

Next door to the pool, the fitness center is small but luxurious. About a dozen LifeFitness cardio machines, each with individual televisions, look onto the city and Central Park. There are also a few weight machines, a stretching area, and even a Kinesis machine.

The gorgeous spa, with Asian accents and fresh orchids throughout, offers a full range of treatments, from manicures to massages. They don't come cheap: Even a 50-minute massage runs over $200, and most treatments are over $300. But if you purchase a spa treatment, you also get access to Experience Showers, an Amethyst Crystal Steam Room, and a Vitality Pool. (Only guests staying in suites have free access to these facilities; other guests can pay $50 per stay to use them.) For the ultimate in luxury, guests can book a private, 650-square-foot VIP spa suite that replicates an Asian-style home and has its own fireplace, elevated bath, steam shower, and dual massage beds.

Great food and dining options abound in the hotel itself as well as in the Time Warner Center building. The hotel bar, MObar, is on the 35th floor, has great views, and attracts both locals and hotel guests. The hotel restaurant, Asiate, has pricey, critically lauded Asian fare and those same great 35th-floor views. Room service is offered 24 hours.

From the third floor of the hotel, guests can walk directly into The Shops at Columbus Circle, which houses some of the city's best, and most expensive, restaurants, like Thomas Keller's Per Se and Masayoshi Takayama's Masa. For a complete list of bars and restaurants at the Time Warner Center, visit the building's website.

The Central Park View Suite

While the hotel lacks the iconic charm that makes grand old hotels like the Plaza and the Pierre memorable high-end picks for families, it's still got plenty to offer kids. The Plaza and the Pierre may be within walking distance of FAO Schwarz and Serendipity 3, but it's easier to reach the Museum of Natural History and the Hayden Planetarium from the Mandarin's location on the Upper West Side. (Both are just 17 blocks from the hotel -- a quick cab ride or two stops on the subway.) And, of course, the hotel is also just one block from the endless amusements of Central Park.

For sleeping arrangements, the hotel features standard rooms with two oversized twin beds. These rooms can be adjoined to Deluxe Hudson River View rooms with a single king bed for Mom and Dad. Rollaway beds and cribs are complimentary and fit in any room. Through September 7, 2009, the hotel is offering a special "Reconnect in the City" package for families, which includes a complimentary connecting room to a suite and a complimentary continental breakfast.

The room-service menu offers a "Little Fans" section with options like a $14 hot dog and a $15 "Green Eggs and Ham." The hotel's restaurants do not feature kids menus, though children can be accommodated at the Lobby Lounge. Asiate is a bit too fancy for kids, and MObar is, well, a bar, but within the building there's a Whole Foods Market offering quick, healthy dining options for kids and adults alike.

Unlike many hotels that welcome only pets under 15 pounds, the Mandarin allows pets of all sizes. Pets receive welcome amenities. In common areas, pets must always be on a leash.

Though it hasn't been renovated since it opened in late 2003, the hotel feels fresh and modern thanks to its simple, elegant Asian style. Guest rooms are thoroughly cleaned with housekeeping service twice daily. My room's age showed only on very close examination: Carpets were slightly worn but not stained; one of the chairs in my room had a small hole; and the desk was pretty scratched. But everything was thoroughly clean, and the common areas sparkled.

Breakfast at Asiate

The hotel restaurant, Asiate, serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch alongside floor-to-ceiling windows and views of the park. Its delicious Asian cuisine is critically lauded but also quite expensive. A simple breakfast of eggs and bacon for two came to over $70 -- but service was impeccable, and there was even a breakfast amuse-bouche in the form of a tasty blueberry smoothie shooter. For dinner, the restaurant offers only prix fixe menus. The three-course prix fixe is $85, and the full, eight-course tasting menu is $125.

For less formal eating and drink, MObar serves classic and signature cocktails and tasty small plates that average around $20. It also has stunning views, which tend to be most enjoyed by an after-work crowd swilling and nibbling in business suits. The most casual dining option is the Lobby Lounge, which serves continental breakfast, light fare, and even a $38 afternoon tea, also with stunning views from the 35th floor. In-room dining is available 24 hours per day.

From the third floor of the hotel, guests can walk directly into The Shops at Columbus Circle, which houses some of the city's best, and most expensive, restaurants, like Thomas Keller's Per Se and Masayoshi Takayama's Masa. For quick bites, there's also a Whole Foods Market and the Bouchon Bakery, a top French bakery also from Keller, in The Shops. For a complete list of bars and restaurants at the Time Warner Center, go to the building's website.

The reception space overlooks Central Park

• Wedding Size: Up to 400 people; only one wedding at a time

• Ceremony and Reception Location: The 6,000-square-foot Ballroom has stunning views of Central Park. Though it doesn't quite have the same old-world glamour of other top-notch venues in New York, its less elaborate design makes it easier to create your own unique look.

• Wedding Packages: The standard wedding packages include a one-hour open bar, passed hors d'oeuvres, specialty stations, carving stations, a three-course plated dinner with wine, a wedding cake, and a champagne toast, but you'll have to call the hotel for specific pricing. (Hint: It's not cheap; six-figure weddings are common.) Kids', kosher, vegetarian, and gluten-free menus available upon request.

• Spa Treatments: The full-service spa includes specialized packages for the bride and groom.

• Honeymoon Suite: The Central Park View Suite is popular among newlyweds.